Important Savage 10ML-II "DO and DON'T"
"When
all else fails, read the manual" has never been more true than
it is today. Most of us are guilty of it to an extent; I know I
sure am. It really should not have taken me six weeks to assemble
that entertainment center, I suppose. We all want the same thing,
though-- maximum results with minimal effort.
A major powder
manufacturer reported to me that well over 90% of their e-mails
were questions already redundantly addressed on their website. A
major scope manufacturer reported to me that well over 50% of all
their returned products had no problems whatsoever after comprehensive
disassembly and inspection. There is a trend of sorts, here-- we
just don't like to read instructions. The list of "DO"
is compiled so you can get the most out of your 10ML-II. The list
of "DON'T" is likewise compiled so you can get the most
out of your 10ML-II. That's what everybody wants, that's what the
Savage Team wants, and that sure is what new owners want. Even if
you are otherwise experienced with other muzzleloaders or firearms,
please do yourself a favor and review these items. It will make
your new "out of the box" experience much more enjoyable,
and you will find the performance the 10ML-II provides a whole lot
quicker.
I.
DO USE CURRENT FORMULATION SABOTS
Everything we do is
contingent on the performance of the polyethylene sabot. Unfortunately,
it isn't easy to tell how old a sabot is just by looking at it or
even who made it. Contingent on how retailers handle their inventory,
we could be using old formula sabots that will not give us good
performance. For Hornady .452 250 grain and 300 grain XTP bullets,
please take the vital variable out of the equation by getting fresh
sabots from MMP at 870-741-5019, or see their website at http://mmpsabots.com.
You need the short, black "MMP" 50 x. 451 sabot. For longer
bullets, MMP offers the .50 x .451 HPH12 and HPH24 sabots. The HPH24
sabots have an assembled outside diameter a bit smaller than the
HPH12 sabots and are easier to seat. Ultraviolet light attacks and
destroys sabots-please do not store them on your dashboard, etc.
A cool, dry place is best-- storing them where temperatures breach
150 degrees Fahrenheit can also render then useless.
II.
DO USE PROVEN BULLET COMBINATIONS
The Savage Owners manual
lists loads for 250 grain to 300 grain projectiles. For best results,
please stay within that range. The Hornady XTP bullets mentioned
above have been proven over tens of thousands of shots over sixteen
years, and rate a "MUST TRY." Other sabot / bullet combinations
have since been found suitable such as the 300 gr. Barnes MZ-Expander
with the supplied sabot (an MMP HPH 12 sabot), and the Orange
MMP 50 x .458 sabot married to the .458 Barnes Original 300 grain
Spitzer Soft Point #457010 and the Hornady .458 300 grain Hollow
Point #4500. These combinations work exceeding well in most Savage
10ML-II rifles-- please take advantage of the past, well-proven
results.
III.
DO NOT USE POWERBELTS WITH SMOKELESS POWDER
Use of "Powerbelts"
and other bore-sized conicals with smokeless powder is clearly prohibited
by the Savage 10ML-II Owner's manual. They are undersized, and can
cause misfires. The green gas check at the base has a hole in it,
and is insufficient for smokeless powder. By virtue of being bore-sized,
they fly poorly compared to the Savage recommended .45 caliber projectiles.
Not jacketed, they are copper plated ("copper clad")
or just pure lead. They have been tested, and in addition to all
the other problems, filling your barrel full of lead has been the
result-- a horrible mess to try to clean up. However, heavier Powerbelts
and other heavy conicals do shoot quite well out of the Savage when
used with Pyrodex or Triple Se7en-- but please do not cause yourself
problems by using them with smokeless powder. Their use is prohibited
with smokeless powder by Savage Arms: smokeless is for "saboted
projectiles only."
IV.
ABSOLUTELY PLEASE DO USE STARTING LOADS
For best accuracy, as
mentioned in most reloading manuals, never start at a high or "maximum"
charge of powder. Every gun is an individual, and we must complete
the one-time task necessary to find the most accurate load for our
rifle. Specifically, with IMR SR4759 START at 39 grains of
powder by weight. With Accurate Arms 5744 START at 40 grains
of powder by weight. With Vihtavouri N110, please START with
37 grains of powder by weight.
All of these starting
loads produce generous velocity, energy, and terminal performance
to quickly, humanely harvest deer-sized game to 250 yards. Additionally,
you will appreciate the low recoil, low cost per shot, and low stress
on your sabot, scope and mounts. You may not want or need to increase
the respective charges beyond these levels. However, you can certainly
work up a load by increasing your powder charge weights in one grain
increments to the levels stated in the Savage Owner's manual. When
your groups start to open up, it is time to back down that powder
charge a grain or so-- you have reached the reliability and accuracy
limit of your sabot. It makes no sense to try the same powder charge
again and again hoping for a different result. We need to work up
a load, using starting loads-not start high and work down. This
gives us the accuracy and performance that we all seek, and is immensely
satisfying.
V.
DO NOT USE SUB-BASES OR ANY OTHER MATERIAL BETWEEN THE SABOT AND
POWDER
Sub-bases have been
shown to reduce muzzle velocity, inhibit proper load work-up, and
are a needless complication and expense. The use of sub-bases or
any other material between the sabot and the powder charge is clearly
prohibited by the Savage 10ML-II owner's manual.
VI.
DO INSERT RAMROD IN THIMBLES BEFORE PRIMING YOUR GUN
The ramrod absolutely must be removed from the barrel and inserted
in the thimbles or placed away from the 10ML-II before inserting
a 209 shotshell primer. Most of us would never think of leaving
a cleaning rod in a shotgun or a centerfire rifle, for good reason.
It is mandatory that a ramrod is never, ever left in the barrel
of any muzzleloader.
VII.
DO DISCHARGE YOUR GUN AT THE END OF THE DAY
Nothing good can possibly
happen to powder after it is loaded into a muzzleloader. The wide
variety of ambient conditions while hunting, temperature changes
over the evening, moving a gun in and out of a vehicle, and so forth
can impair the reliability of your charge. No one would leave a
bottle of powder uncapped and exposed to contamination. In a harried
hunting camp, muzzleloaders can (and have) "loaded"
guns that are already loaded with powder and sabot. The Savage 10ML-II
uses non-corrosive propellants and requires no immediate cleaning.
Discharging your gun in a safe direction at the end of the day helps
insure reliability and accuracy that can be vital to a successful
hunt.
VIII.
DO SERVICE YOUR BREECH PLUG and VENTLINER
The Savage 10ML-II needs
the least regular maintenance of any muzzleloader made. However,
to insure the best reliability and accuracy, the 10ML-II must be
cleaned after ever pack of primers, or 100 shots. This is the simple
task of removing your breechplug, taking out the ventliner, and
drilling out the carbon from the breechplug by going in from the
primer side with a 5/32" drill bit. Then clean the breechplug
threads. The barrel is cleaned as you would a centerfire rifle,
and a new vent-liner has its threads coated with Mil-Spec 907E Anti-Seize
(from any auto parts store) and installed in the breechplug.
The breechplug threads are also lubed with Anti-Seize, and reinstalled.
Now, you are good to go. Many Savage 10ML-II enthusiasts clean their
rifles once a year, whether they need it or not.
IX.
PLEASE DO ALLOW GENEROUS BARREL COOLING TIME
Heat is the enemy of
sabots: it can quickly soften and weaken them. For best accuracy,
allow your barrel to cool between shots-- before reloading.
If you reload, it is too late--the sabot is already in direct contact
with hot metal. If your barrel is hot to the touch, it is likely
too hot to maintain full sabot strength or your best shooting accuracy.
By
taking the small amount of time requisite to following the suggestions,
you can help yourself get excellent results quickly, and are well
on your way to a lifetime of shooting enjoyment.
For
further information, please DO consult your Savage 10ML-II Owner's
manual. It is supplied to help you get the most out of your new
Savage.
©
November, 2005 by Randy Wakeman
